"TILE FAQ "
Q. What is the difference between standard “ceramic” tiles and porcelain tiles?
A.Tile terminology can be confusing. Most types of tiles that are made from clay or a mixture of clay and other materials, then kiln-fired, are considered to be a part of the larger classification called “Ceramic Tiles”. These tiles can be split into two groups, porcelain tiles and non-porcelain tiles. These non-porcelain tiles are frequently referred to as ceramic tiles by themselves, separate from porcelain tiles. “Ceramic” or non-porcelain tiles are generally made from red or white clay fired in a kiln. They are almost always finished with a durable glaze which carries the color and pattern. These tiles are used in both wall tile and floor tile applications, are softer and easier to cut than porcelain, and usually carry a PEI 0 to 3 rating. Non-porcelain ceramic tiles are usually suitable for very light to moderate traffic and generally have a relatively high water absorption rating making them less frost resistant and they are more prone to wear and chipping than porcelain tiles. Porcelain tile is a tile that is generally made by the dust pressed method from porcelain clays which result in a tile that is dense, impervious, fine grained and smooth, with a sharply formed face. Porcelain tiles usually have a much lower water absorption rate (less than 0.5%) than non-porcelain tiles making them frost resistant or frost-proof. Glazed porcelain tiles are much harder and more wear and damage resistant than non-porcelain ceramic tiles, making them suitable for any application from light traffic to the heaviest residential and light commercial traffic. Full body porcelain tiles carry the color and pattern through the entire thickness of the tile making them virtually impervious to wear and are suitable for any application from residential to the highest traffic commercial or industrial applications. Porcelain tiles are available in matte, unglazed or a high polished finish.
Q. Can ceramic tile be used outdoors?
A.To be used outdoors, we recommend the tile must be "frostproof", which is an absorption rate is 0.5% or less.
Q. What is the difference between glazed and full-body tiles?
A.Glazed tiles are coated with a liquid glass, which is then baked into the surface of the clay. The glaze provides an unlimited array of colors and designs as well as protects the tile from staining. The unglazed tiles are pretty much the same as the glazed tile, except that their surface is not coated. Full-body porcelain tiles do not show wear because their color extends throughout the tile, making them ideal for commercial applications.
Q. Should a sealer be used on ceramic tile?
A. A glazed tile is already stain proof, so there is no purpose to putting on a sealer. You may put a penetrating sealer on your unglazed tile or your grout joints. The penetrating sealer is an invisible, stain resistant shield that is absorbed into the surface.
Q. Where can your tiles be used and what is a PEI rating?
A.PEI classes range from 0 to 5. The Porcelain Enamel Institute rating scale is not a measurement of quality. It is a scale that clearly indicates the areas of use each manufacturer recommends and has designed their tile to fit. A PEI 2 tile has been designed for areas where very low traffic and soiling is anticipated. In most cases the aesthetic detailing of these tiles is of prime consideration. You will often find high gloss levels, vibrant colorations and metallic elements in this group of tile. Conversely, a PEI 5 tile has been designed for abusive extra heavy foot traffic. The technical aspects such surface abrasion resistance will be considered and must be achieved first before aesthetic effects are incorporated.
Class 0 - No Foot Traffic:
Wall tile only and should not be used on floors.
Class 1 - Very light traffic:
Very low foot traffic, bare or stocking feet only. (Master bath, spa bathroom).
Class 2 - Light Traffic:
Slipper or soft-soled shoes. Second level main bathroom areas, bedrooms.
Class 3 - Light to Moderate Traffic:
Any residential area with the possible exception of some entries and kitchens if extremely heavy or abrasive traffic is anticipated.
Class 4 - Moderate to Heavy Traffic:
High foot traffic, areas where abrasive or outside dirt could be tracked. Residential entry, kitchen, balcony, and countertop.
Class 5 - Heavy Traffic:
Ceramic tile suggested for residential, commercial and institutional floor subjected to heavy traffic.
"HARDWOOD FAQ "
Q- With so many to choose from, how do I know what species of wood to choose?
A- Choosing a species is more than finding something that matches your homes décor. Each species has its on texture, grain, along with color. You may want to look into the woods hardness, stability, and ease in finishing. Cost and availability may also play big roles in your decision making.
Q- Why do I almost always see wood floors in gymnasiums?
A- Wood covers more than 70% of sports floors, this is due to its durability and comfort. Wood floors have improved shock absorption, greater resilience, increased energy return, and are softer and more supple than other flooring. This all combines to help reduce injuries and body fatigue for athletes. Also wood flooring can take a pounding and still look beautiful. The urethane finishes on most all new floors stand up to water and traffic better than ever before. These finishes resist wear and stain better than other finishes and require no stripping, no buffing, and no waxing.
Q- Do wood floors have good acoustics?
A- Auditorium projects frequently request wood floors for its acoustic contributions and warmth. Consult your retailer or professional wood floor installer for techniques to increase acoustic abilities.
Q- How are my wood floors maintained?
A- Most wood floors today have a urethane finish that sits on top of the wood itself. Dust mop, sweep, or vacuum regularly, and always follow the manufacturer’s cleaning recommendations. If your floor has lost its shine and cleaning will not revive it, recoat the floor with a surface finish. Never wax a surface-finished floor. Also never use vinyl or tile floor care products on any wood floor.
Q- How can I help keep my floor from getting scratched?
A- Use throw rugs or place mats at doorways to help protect your floors from grit, dirt, and sand. Vacuum or dust your floors regularly and place felt pads under your furniture legs.
Q- What's the difference between engineered flooring and laminate flooring?
A- Engineered flooring is constructed much like plywood, it is glued together in several different layers with the actual finished hardwood veneer layer on top. This gives Engineered wood a slight advantage, as it tends to be more forgiving to humidity and floor movement. It also may be sanded and refinished in many cases, usually according to the thickness of the veneer layer on top.
Today's Laminate flooring is made from high-density fiberboard with a photographed image of finished hardwood printed on top. Laminate can not be sanded and refinished, but is very scratch resistant, and usually less expensive.
Q- Can I glue hardwood straight to a concrete floor?
A- Some retailers and even installers may say yes, but we find that doing so in most circumstances will void your floorings warranty. The reason for this is because concrete allows moisture through, or sweats, and moisture is the number one threat to all flooring in most circumstances. With hardwood, this moisture can destroy your glue or even rot or warp your solid wood flooring. Ask your retailer for more installation information and product warranties.
Q- What kind of hardwoods can I place on concrete subfloors then?
A- Engineered wood made for a "floating" application is the usual answer if moisture conditions are considered acceptable. "Floating" floor is a floor that is manufactured with tongue and groove locking mechanism, floated over a foam cushioned underlayment and requires no glue.
Q- I've heard horrror stories growing up of the hard maintenance of Hardwood floors...Just how hard is it to care for?
A- Unlike Hardwood of the past, no waxing or stripping is required. Hardwood now is as simple to care for as any other flooring material. Dusting or vacuuming is normally all that is required. Do not allow liquid to stand on your wood floor, regaurdless of its finish it will begin to lose its luster, or even warp and cause other serious problems if this happens. Also just like our own skin, the ultraviolet rays of the sun can damage hardwood. Though the newest water based finishes slow this effect, these rays can change the colors of your wood. Some woods like Cherry seem to darken, while others may lighten. So try to further protect your wood floor by using sheer drapes, curtains or blinds to limit sunlight.
Q- Should I allow my wood floor to acclimate?
A- Yes, allow your solid wood floor to acclimate for at least 48 hours before installation in the room it is to be installed, by allowing it to sit opened and flat. Consult your installer or retailer for further information on heating/cooling , or humidity issues.
"LAMINATE FAQ "
Q.What is laminate flooring?
A.Laminate flooring is a rigid floor covering with a surface layer consisting of one or more thin sheets of a fibrous material (usually paper), impregnated with aminoplastic thermosetting resins (usually melamine). These sheets are either pressed as such (HPL, CPL, Compact), and in the case of HPL or CPL bonded on a substrate, or in the case of DPL directly pressed on a substrate. The product is normally finished with a backing primarily used as a balancing material. Its performance values are set by the NALFA Standard.
Q.What is an underlayment?
A.The term "underlayment" refers to any roll or sheet product designed to be installed over the sub-floor surface and under the laminate flooring material.
Q.How does Laminate flooring compare to other flooring surfaces?
A.Laminate flooring is typically more durable, less prone to indent, has better stain resistance, resists shrinkage and swelling due to seasonal changes, and is easier to install than many other flooring surfaces.
Q.How do I know the laminate flooring I choose is a quality product?
A.Reputable laminate flooring manufacturers subject their products to the stringent requirements of certification in compliance with the North American Laminate Flooring Association ("NALFA") specification. Any product carrying the NALFA seal of approval is considered quality flooring.
Q.How does laminate flooring compare to other flooring surfaces?
A.Laminate flooring is typically more durable, less prone to indent, has better stain resistance, resists shrinkage and swelling due to seasonal changes, and is easier to install than many other flooring surfaces.
Q.I want to install a laminate floor but with kids and pets I am afraid it might be noisy. How does laminate flooring perform in such environments and is there anything I can do to muffle the noise?
A.Laminate flooring is recommended for an environment where the "challenges" of children and pets exist and it is not significantly noisier than other hard flooring surfaces. The choice of underlayment will have the greatest effect in reducing noise from pedestrian foot traffic. Your laminate retailer or flooring specialist will be able to guide you to the underlayment which is right for your installation situation.
Q.Can laminate flooring be installed on walls?
A.Laminate flooring is currently recommended only for flooring applications. For all other uses, consult appropriate building codes and refer back to the manufacturer of the specific product or its website.
Q.Can I install laminate flooring in an unheated space (e.g., garage, cabin, porch)?
A.Laminates need to be installed in climatically stable environments, avoiding extreme temperature swings and excessive humidity.
Q.Can laminate floor be installed in a basement?
A.Generally, laminate flooring may be installed in a basement in accordance with the manufacturer product specific installation recommendations. Your laminate retailer or manufacturer can provide more specific detail on this matter.
Q.How long will a laminate floor last?
A.How long a laminate product will last depends upon the product one selects, the use it sees, and how well it is cared for. For product specific warranties, refer back to the manufacturer's information or the manufacturer's website.
Q.Can laminate flooring be installed over a radiant heated floor?
A.Yes. However, there are special installation procedures required for radiant heated sub-floors. The laminate manufacturer's installation recommendations must be followed to ensure a successful installation.
Q.Can laminate flooring be installed in a bathroom?
A.Most manufacturers offer laminate product for use in bathrooms. However, since bathrooms are high moisture areas, special installation procedures may be required. Please refer back to the manufacturer of the specific product for specific instructions.
Q.What are the standard performance tests utilized by NALFA for laminate floors?
A.Performance requirements include, but are not limited to: static load, thickness swell, impact resistance, light resistance, cleanability/stain resistance, wear resistance, dimensional tolerances, and castor chair resistance.
Q.Will laminate flooring fade?
A.Normally not. It is possible that over the years you may find a small difference. For product specific warranty information, you should refer back to manufacturer.
Q.Should I be concerned about heavy furniture or appliances being placed on laminate flooring?
A.Laminate flooring offers better indentation and scratch resistance than most other types of flooring particularly as related to heavy loads. However, care and common sense should be exercised when moving heavy objects placed upon the flooring.
Q.Why do I need an underlayment?
A.Underlayments are used to: (1) improve acoustical properties, (2) smooth out minor sub-floor imperfections, (3) improve insulation properties, (4) reduce walking fatigue, and (5) helping to protect the laminate flooring material from sub-floor moisture.
Q.I want to install a laminate floor but with kids and pets I am afraid it might be noisy. How does laminate flooring perform in such environments and is there anything I can do to muffle the noise?
A.Laminate flooring is recommended for an environment where the "challenges" of children and pets exist and it is not significantly noisier than other hard flooring surfaces. The choice of underlayment will have the greatest effect in reducing noise from pedestrian foot traffic. Your laminate retailer or flooring specialist will be able to guide you to the underlayment which is right for your installation situation.
Q.Can laminate floor be installed in a basement?
A.Generally, laminate flooring may be installed in a basement in accordance with the manufacturer product specific installation recommendations. Your laminate retailer or manufacturer can provide more specific detail on this matter.
Q.Can laminate flooring be installed over a radiant heated floor?
A.Yes. However, there are special installation procedures required for radiant heated sub-floors. The laminate manufacturer's recommendations must be followed to ensure a successful installation.
Q.After taking up old flooring, I wanted to put down laminate. The sub-floor is fairly clean but it still has some of the adhesive that is hard to get up. What can I do to smooth out the surface so the laminate material lies flat?
A.Using a quality underlayment will help smooth out minor imperfections in the sub-floor. Ask your laminate flooring dealer about a quality underlayment.
Q.Are all laminate floors installed in basically the same manner?
A.There can be substantial differences in installation methods. Please follow the manufacturer's specific installation instructions.
Q.Can I install a laminate floor by myself?
A.There are some laminate products that will lend themselves to a "do-it-yourself" installation. A trained professional should install the other laminate products. Your flooring retailer can assist you in making that choice.
Q.Why is an expansion zone needed around the perimeter of a room?
A.An expansion zone is needed to allow for the normal movements of the flooring system due to climatic changes.
Q.Why must the laminate product be in the room it will be installed in 48 hours prior to installation?
A.The laminate, underlayment, and glue should be acclimated to the conditions of the room in which it will be installed. By allowing typically 48 hours to acclimate, you are allowing the product to stabilize to its installation environment and minimize subsequent dimensional changes.
Q.Can we install laminate over old carpet?
A.No, any carpet will have to be removed.
Q.What special considerations may be required for large installations or adjoining rooms?
A.Depending upon room size and layout, and the manufacturer's recommendations, transition accessory pieces may be required to allow for proper expansion and contraction of the laminate floor. Please refer to your specific manufacturer or installer recommendations.
Q.How will the laminate floor attach, or transition to, adjacent areas which have different floor coverings which have carpet or vinyl?
A.To create functional and attractive transitions from your laminate floor to adjacent different floor coverings such as carpet or vinyl, accessory pieces designed for the specific transition are available in matching or coordinating decors, and are usually required to complete a professional-looking installation. Please refer to your specific manufacturer or installer recommendations.
Q.What should I do about an uneven sub-floor?
A.Underlayment should take care of most minor imperfections. Larger sub-floor irregularities may require patching, filling or other measures. Please refer to manufacturer instructions.
Q.Can I glue the laminate to the sub-floor?
A.Most laminate flooring is installed as a "floating floor". To the extent any glue may be used, refer to manufacturer instructions.
Q.How long will a laminate floor last?
A.How long a laminate product will last depends upon the product one selects, the use it sees, and how well it is cared for. For product specific warranties, refer back to the manufacturer's information or the manufacturer's website.
Q.How does laminate flooring compare to other flooring surfaces?
A.Laminate flooring is typically more durable, less prone to indent, has better stain resistance, resists shrinkage and swelling due to seasonal changes, and is easier to install than many other flooring surfaces.
Q.How do I repair scratches or other damage to a laminate floor?
A.Laminate manufacturers have repair kits available to remove or repair minor damage. If the damage is severe, it will require a qualified installer to replace the individual laminate board.
Q.Can I use a strong cleaner on a laminate floor?
A.Laminate flooring is a durable and stain resistant floor covering so strong cleaners are typically not required nor recommended, "Floor flooding" is also not recommended for cleaning. For specific care instructions, you should consult the product manufacturer's recommendations.
Q.How do I care for my laminate floor?
A.Laminate flooring is made to be easy to care for. Consequently, no waxing is required. Typically, all that is required is sweeping to remove surface grit and occasional spot treatment with a manufacturer's recommended cleanser